![]() ![]() Actually this frame is removed but I post better pictures tomorrow.ĭespite of being some sort of temporary solution this set up was strong enough to have the engine bolted (225kg) and two guys jumping on it to test the strength. I have painted in in Hammerite and it held well for 2 seasons. This is a black frame you see on the picture welded diagonal bars to the vertical ones making the whole think like a frame. fitted a couple of bits of angle bar to the stringers using the same holes that were used to install the Mercruiser. I re-fitted back the bracket (outside) and the vertical angle bars from inside, bolted tight altogether with marine silicone. then I removed the whole set-up and asking a friend to hold the angle bars from inside I drilled these through the existing holes for the bracket. I have pre-fitted my outboard bracket from outside and drilled all the holes, fitted the bolts and tightened in the correct position. I have fitted this bracket with a counter-reinforcement frame, just welded of metal scrap angle bars 2mm thick and 100mm wide, bolted through the transom with the Gil bracket and bo,ted to the stringers where the Mercruiser was sitting. Build absolutely great, tidy and regular tig welding, weight about 40kg, could take up to 300hp. This is a picture of a new bracket (not mine) to give a good idea of what is this. I decided to bite the bullet and got the bracket few weeks after. So I found a Gil Marine stainless steel engine bracket that was selling for $800.00 plus shipping and customs. I looked at the local prices for fabrication and even wanted to build one by myself but gave up cause of the price. From experience I know this aluminium pod would last me 4-5 years before needed a re-build.Īn engine bracket was then the best option in my opinion. The area I’m moored in is bad for sacrificial anodes and when having a sailboat I was replacing the engine shaft anode twice in a season. Another point is that being mostly built of aluminium the galvanic corrosion would wreak it in no time. May be I’m wrong on this point but I just did not like it.įitting a pod would be a great idea but the pods are mainly manufactured in the US and shipping would be prohibitive. ![]() An open transom would be not a very secure option especially at high sea. Danger of back filling: as my boat is moored onThames there are regular waves from the passing tugs, workboats, big ships and so on.Lost of space: by removing the engine I gained about 1 cubic meter of space in the engine bay but by cutting the transom I would lose it and probably would lose even more if I want to re-build the transom enclosure instead of living the opening as it.To cut out the transom and hang a decent size outboard I would need to do serious work. The edges of the stern drive cut out were soaked and spongy. The lower I was drilling the mor water was coming from the drilled hole. Weak transom: the transom is definitely rotten to some extend and when I was re-fitting some bits like trim tabs actuators or fish finder, there was dark brown water coming from around the drill bit and the bits of wood look like a dark smelly putty.Cut out the transom, fit a pod or fit a engine bracket.Ĭutting out the transom would give me a quick option but the negative points are weak transom, opening for the waves and necessity of fibreglassing and re-gelcoating the cut out. When deciding about the way of attaching the outboard there were 3 options.
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